Scammed!(bound to happen), Siem Reap, and Phnom Penh

So we finally got scammed. Apparently it's the oldest trick in the book, according to a message I later read hand-written by a tourist on the back of a bus seat. Long story short, we took the bus from Koh Chang to Siem Reap, and at the border crossing into Cambodia, you change buses because cars are not aloud to cross. So you get to the border and meet your "guide"who helps you along the way with visa stuff, etc. He talks to you the whole time, tells you the do's and dont's of Cambodia and really builds trust on a fast pace, taking advantage of a bunch of nervous travelers who are looking for someone to fill that role. So he tells us that you cannot trust ATM's in Cambodia, and that we should all withdraw as much Thai Baht as possible and then exchange it at the currency exchange he'll take us to, but we have to be quick because the bus is leaving. Then, everybody exchanges their Baht for Reil, not knowing the exact exchange rate cause it's not the dollar, and the guy is gone. Horded on a bus, and ten minutes later we all realize that the exchange rate was wacked out. Most people lost close to a couple hundred dollars, but I had a funny feeling the whole time, so I only lost about $50. Oh well, live and learn. Could have been worse.

So we took that long and hellish bus ride down the bumpiest road I've ever seen for 9 hours to Siem Reap, home of Angkor Wat. A Cambodian man told me that the airline industry pays the government to keep the road bumpy so more people will fly. In the end though, it was worth it. Angkor Wat is probably one of the most phenominal things I have ever seen. These massive stone structures are over 1000 years old and still have carvings in perfect condition. I'll try to post pictures when I can.

Also while in Siem Reap we went to the local children's hospital to see a cello performance. This Swiss doctor named Dr.Beat Richner performs every saturday to benefit the hospital. In between songs he lectures for about 10 minutes about Cambodia, the kids, hospital, etc. It was very depressing, but important, experience. According to the Dr., who has been working here since 1973, 65% of Cambodians have tuberculosis. This tuberculosis perpetually weakens their immune systems, causing dengue fever epidemics on a nearly indefinite basis. It's all masked from tourists though, and in the mean time only 3-4% of profit from tourism stays in Cambodia because all of the hotels/resorts are owned by Westerners. Also, the WHO only provides financial support if you follow their stucture for treatment, which calls for privatization to promote "responsibility" among the poor. Ridiculous. Basically I feel overwhelmed with guilt for coming here only for tourism. A lot of the problems here are a direct result of my countries foreign policy, past and present, so if Cambodian people are going to be kind enough to share their country with me I feel like I should be willing to help in exchange. So far I've done little things, like donate clothes to an orphanage, eat at NGO restaurants, support street venders, etc., but I'd like to do a little more if possible.

On a more positive note, Micah and I rented bikes the other day and went for a long and interesting bike around town. I think that was the best experience I have had so far, because we were just cruising around neighborhoods seeing regular people and partially escaping the tourist trap. Plus navigating traffic is an adventure in and of itself. We are in the capital city Phnom Penh for a few days now. Getting Vietnamese visa, going to the killing fields, museums, etc. I think I want to head NE from here to the elephant stomping grounds in the jungle. We'll see though. Time is flying by so fast, I am thinking about changing my ticket to stay longer. I'm really looking forward to Vietnam. I think that is enough for now. Sorry if this entry sounded negative, I guess I just had a dramatic reality check and wanted to get it off my chest is all. -Ben

PS Germans are pompous assholes.